Kalambo Falls

Kalambo Falls is said to be

The waterfall is in high flow in the May/June timeframe. But this depends on how much rainfall the region gets during its rainy season from January through April. The flow diminishes as the year progresses. Come around October or November and the falls probably won't look impressive. However, under these conditions, we've been told that you could stand atop the falls with one foot in Tanzania and one foot in Zambia.

We definitely had to earn our sighting of Kalambo Falls as we had to partake on a minimum 2-3 hour walk each way (or about 5km each way) with a steep, relentless climb up a dry canyon. Plus, the Lake Tanganyika Basin seemed to be very hot so we were sweating bullets and had to drink lots of water (much of which ended up being warm as the day got hotter).

Indeed, we had gotten an early morning start as the hike began at 7:55am (that was after a 7:45am boat ride from Isanga Bay to the village at the trailhead). After being swarmed by the village kids waiting for handouts from us (we did bring lots of pens and even a plastic bottle so they could use them; don't remember if it was Claire's [from Thorn Tree Lodge] suggestion or from someone else before our trip), we then followed the local guide who was a young adult. And we didn't waste any time getting behind the village and right up the trail.

The trail was well-defined through tall grass, but soon enough, it started climbing in earnest. The first hour's climb was steep with lots of large rocks requiring either large steps or the use of all of our limbs. At about 2/3rd the way up the climb, we had lost our shade and the heat of the day was already stifling.

After the first hour, the trail started flattening out. We passed a few huts and fields before walking amongst more tall grass. About 40 minutes later, our guide took us into an overgrown spur trail amongst tall stalks (that grew taller than us and was real easy to get lost here), which eventually cleared up into a descent towards a rocky ledge.

It was from this point that we finally got to see Kalambo Falls plunging off a cliff and right into the shadowy gorge below against the morning sun. We had to get right up to the edge of the cliff in order to see all of the falls, but we had to be careful not to get too close to the edge. I wanted to chill out here longer hoping the sun might move more above us so we wouldn't be looking at its light as much, but Julie had no interest in waiting out that event against the sun's heat.

By the time we left the waterfall, it was 10:30am. With the heat that must've totally surpassed 90F and maybe even 100F [definitely well into the 30-40C range], it was a good thing we were now going downhill. I wasn't sure we would've made it even to Kalambo Falls had we started the hike any later than we did given the heat and the long uphill climb.

By about 12:15pm, we were back at the boat, and 15 minutes later, we got to relax for the rest of the day at Isanga Bay Lodge.

Directions: We were staying in Isanga Bay and the caretakers (Sean and Rene) accommodated us in our boat ride to the trailhead. But in order to even get to Isanga Bay, we were driven up from Kasama for the roughly four-hour drive north towards Mpulungu on the southern shores of Lake Tanganyika. From there, we caught a 45-minute boat ride to the Isanga Bay Resort.

I understand that there was also another approach to Kalambo Falls. This is said to require an all-day all-land approach from the town of Mbala where there were apparently other accesses to the trail we ultimately took. I'm sure a guide would be needed for this option as well.

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Swarmed by kids at the local village near the trailhead

Walking behind the back of the village and up towards the falls

Embarking on the climb under some shade

Taking a quick break for a look back towards Lake Tanganyika

Some parts of the climb were steep enough to require us to use all of our limbs

The trail flattened out at this point, but we also lost our shade

Descending towards the rock ledges below to finally view Kalambo Falls

Kalambo Falls as seen in late morning in high flow

Looking downstream towards Tanzania and the Kalambo River with jungle beneath

Going past some of the huts on the way back down

The descent was about to begin

Always looking ahead at Lake Tanganyika as we made the steep descent

Notice our guide and Julie struggling on the steep descent, but then the local village woman was still able to make this climb while balancing stuff on her head!

Back at the bottom of the descent and only a few minutes more before we reach the awaiting boat

Waving good-bye at the village kids as we boated back to Isanga Bay

Buffy (the local dog at the lodge) greeting us in the morning at Isanga Bay

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Fixated on the falls

Right to left sweep starting from the falls and ending well downstream at the gorge marking the political boundary between Tanzania and Zambia

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TRIP REPORTS

• June 2, 2008

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