Shomyo Waterfall (Shomyo-daki [称名滝] and Hannoki Waterfall (Hannoki-no-taki [榛の木の滝])

The Shomyo Waterfall (Shomyo-daki [称名滝]; Shomyo Great Falls or just Shomyo Falls) and Hannoki Waterfall (Hannoki-no-taki [榛の木の滝]; Hannoki Falls) comprise the twin towers of waterfalls i nthe

Our experience with Shomyo Waterfall and Hannoki Waterfall almost resulted in utter disappointment due to nasty weather. Such is the case of tall waterfalls like this where you have to sweat the issue of clouds often blocking the views.

But despite the drenching that we took, I was glad that we pushed forward (as bleak as it looked) with the 30- to 45-minute walk from the bus stop to the end of the walking road right at the Shomyo Bridge. That was because it turned out that the waterfall deities smiled upon us this time as the weather seemed to clear up after spending a few minutes here, and more importantly, just before I had to run to catch the bus back to Tateyama Station.

Beyond the bridge, there was a couple of flights of steps leading to a shelter and a couple more overlooks. Yet it was too bad we couldn't linger here longer due to the time constraints (it was late in the day) plus the inclement weather.

Anyways, it appeared that Hannoki-no-taki really depended on snowmelt and the brief but dense rainy season of early to mid Summer. As you get into Autumn (which I think is an excellent time to go waterfalling in Japan as well as just about all of Asia for that matter), I believe this waterfall tends to diminish rapidly, which might be why it doesn't quite get the same love as Shomyo-daki.

I would put this twin tower pairing of waterfalls (not the only one in the country, btw; see Ginga and Ryusei Falls) right up there amongst Asia's very best if it wasn't for the amount of man-modifications done immediately downstream of the falls. It kind of spoiled things a bit, but then again, logging and hydroelectricity along with tourism and fishing drive the economy of the Toyama-ken (ken=prefecture). So, I guess having this waterfall is much better than sacrificing it altogether!

Another thing worth mentioning is that if you're up for it (and you're willing to forward your luggage), the Shomyo Waterfall and Hannoki Waterfall combo is a side trip to the well-publicized Kurobe-Tateyama Transalpine Route through the heart of the Japan Alps spanning both the Nagano and Toyama Prefectures en route. Due to crummy weather, we didn't do it, but if you did, there's a separate walkway that links one of the stops higher up the mountain to the waterfalls directly. And from there, you could take the bus back to Tateyama Station.

1. Left Matsumoto (or Matsumotooooh Matsumotooooh Matsumotooooh) and caught train for Nagano (some time not long after 6am)
2. Caught Naoetsu line at 8:12
3. Caught JR shinkansen train making a stop in Toyama at 10:10
4. Dropped luggage at a Toyama accommodation at 11:35
5. Caught non-JR local train for Tateyama (1190円 each way) at 12:19
6. Caught bus to Shomyo-daki at 14:00
7. Caught bus back to Tateyama Station at 15:25
8. Caught train back to Toyama Station with a connection (that we nearly missed) at 15:50

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TRIP REPORTS

• May 30, 2009

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