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Jim Jim Falls

Looking down at Jim Jim Falls



Jim Jim Falls (Aboriginal name Barrkmalam) is perhaps the
Northern Territory's (let alone Kakadu National Park's) most spectacular waterfall.

It plunges about 200m off the escarpment and flows spectacularly in the Wet Season. However, its flow diminishes as the Dry Season wears on (like most waterfalls in Australia's far north which rely on the monsoons of the Wet). I'd say if you can time your visit for the start of the Dry Season (for the land excursion) or for the Wet Season (to see the falls by air), then you're in for a real treat!

Speaking of timing, Julie and I attempted to time a visit for this waterfall (not easy to do when you live across the Pacific and you're budgeting time and money let alone work schedules) for the very beginning of the Dry Season so we could partake on a 4wd tour to the base of the waterfall. That way we should be seeing fairly high volume while getting a close and intimate experience.

Unfortunately, Cyclone Monica dumped a bit of rain rather late in the 2006 season, which closed most of the 4wd access roads and increased the likelihood of dangerous saltwater crocodiles encounters (including at watercourses involving waterfalls).

Close look at Jim Jim FallsNow even if the 4wd roads were open, I think most rental car companies prohibit you from taking the rough, ruggeed, and long Jim Jim Falls Road (2-3 hours each way to cover the 66km). That was why we booked with one of the tour companies that normally go there so that we wouldn't have to worry about those things. But that was before we cancelled as a result of the continued closures, and we ended up taking a helicopter tour as the only option left to see the falls given the conditions.

Now had the tour been able to proceed, we would've not only seen Jim Jim Falls, but we'd also continue onto the base of the spectacular Twin Falls (Aboriginal name Gungkurdul). Such tours last a full day leaving from the Kakadu townships Cooinda or Jabiru. I've also seen much excursions leaving from as far away as Darwin. Clearly, such trips must last longer than a day, and we're sure they provide a much more immersive and intimate experience in the Outback.

One caution with organized tours is that if Jim Jim Falls Road is closed, many of the tours (such as Lords Kakadu Safaris in our case) will substitute your tour with a trip to Gunlom Falls and Motor Car Falls. Personally, I don't think it's a fair trade considering you could easily make it to Gunlom Falls on your own (which we did). I think the lesson we learned on our trip was to not book anything in advance that is weather dependent. You could always call government agencies for road conditions and access before you decide to start booking a tour or a 4wd hire.

Directions: The access road to Jim Jim Falls branches off the Kakadu Highway (Hwy 21) just east of Cooinda. Since we didn't self-drive to the falls, we can't say much more about what the drive was like.

As for tours, land excursions can pick you up if you're staying in Jabiru or in Cooinda (where we were staying). The helicopter tour we took was based in Jabiru (some 50km northeast of Cooinda along Kakadu Hwy).

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Flying over the escarpment with some smoke from apparent controlled burns belowFlying over the escarpment with some smoke from apparent controlled burns

Approaching Jim Jim FallsApproaching Jim Jim Falls

Direct view of Jim Jim Falls in the late afternoonDirect view of huge falls in the late afternoon

Landscape view of Jim Jim Falls towering over the treesLandscape view of the falls towering over the trees

Parting shot of Jim Jim FallsParting shot of Jim Jim Falls

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TRIP REPORTS
For more information about our experiences with this waterfall, check out the following travel stories.

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