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Helmcken Falls is probably the most famous of the waterfalls we've seen in the Wells Gray Provincial Park. It seemed like tour buses would routinely stop here and off load their busloads of people thereby crowding the viewing deck and picnic area. I guess the reason for its popularity is that it has a 141m cumulative drop over two distinct tiers (I read somewhere that this is the 4th tallest waterfall in Canada).
Since it's on the Murtle River, it also flows year-round with a high flow that you don't often see with waterfalls this tall. Just imagine Dawson Falls squeezed into a chute before ejecting it over the long drop and you can appreciate its volume.
During our visit in September 2010, we had to contend with bad weather. At least the heavy rains were sort of off-and-on at the time so we could linger at the viewing deck without getting drenched.
However, the thing that really tested our patience was the relentless fog that stubbornly stayed around the gorge between the viewing deck and the falls itself. In fact, the first time we saw it at mid-morning, it was totally foggy. But after an hour or so later, the falls started showing itself albeit grudgingly (as evidenced by the photo you see at the top of this page).
The walk to the falls is practically negligible as it's perhaps less than five minutes from the official car park. Sometimes, tour buses drop off their folks at a pullout that's even closer to the picnic area and viewing deck.
To my knowledge, there's no official way to get closer and to the bottom of Helmcken Falls. However, we did notice a signpost on the drive to the overlook indicating a Helmcken Rim Trail. Since we didn't do it, we can't really say where it goes and whether it provides a different yet worthwhile viewing experience altogether.
Directions: From Clearwater, drive about 43km north on the Clearwater Valley Road towards the Helmcken Falls Road. The signposted turnoff is on the left side of the road after crossing the single-car bridge before Mus' Bowl. Once on the turnoff, follow the road just under 4km to its end where there's a large car park.
To give you an idea of where Clearwater is, it's about 320km west-southwest of Jasper. It took us roughly four hours (each way) to do this drive. We headed west on Hwy 16 into British Columbia (you do have to move the clock back by an hour since BC is on Pacific Standard Time and not on Mountain Time like Alberta), then head south on Hwy 5 which ultimately reaches Clearwater.
If you're not coming from Jasper but Lake Louise instead, it's a pretty arduous 568km drive between Clearwater and Lake Louise (if you're choosing to take Hwy 1 before deviating from it and heading north on the Hwy 5.
Indeed, it's a non-trivial drive, but in a way, this break from the touristy part of the Canadian Rockies kind of helped us avoid the difficulties of a snow storm (it tends to be warmer in BC) while chilling us out a bit since the experience was more tranquil (despite the tour buses that would come here).
I was at Rearguard Falls as a tourist in August 2010. I stumbled into rafters who told me I could not go down the path they were on, to the base of the falls...[more]