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Dynkur (Búđarhálsfoss)

Distant view of Dynkur




Dynkur (also called Budarhalsfoss or Búđarhálsfoss; "BOO-thur-howls-foss") is a wide and powerful multi-segmented waterfall on the Ţjórsá River. Getting to this waterfall required a bit of driving on very scary 4wd roads that probably made me the most nervous I had ever been behind the wheel (and this was despite there being no river crossings).

Once we made it to the car park, we were able to get distant views of the falls. However, it looked like the trail kept going closer to the falls, but we didn't do it because the swarming midges made life miserable for us the morning we were there. Plus, I was nervous about not making it back to civilization having not being used to driving such rugged roads to even get here (and believe me, it ended up being harder to get back than it was to get there; see driving directions below).

Directions: The following was how we managed to do the drive.

Starting from Hrauneyjar Highland Center, we took Route 26 west for a little over 6km. There was a turnoff on the right hand side crossing the bridge over the Tungnaá then going onto black-sanded tracks. From here, the signs were a bit faint so we had to pay close attention (and yes we did miss a few turns and had to backtrack a couple of times).

Driving on charred volcanic landscapeI recalled at about 4km off route 26, we turned right, then continued on the black-sanded road following the signs the best we could finally reaching the falls after around 18km. The last 3.5km involved going over very deep wheel-sized mud gullies flanked by grass requiring me to keep one pair of tires on the elevated grassy middle of the road and the other pair of wheels on the tilted embankment of the gully (so as to not consistently bang the undercarriage of the car on the ground). Some of this stretch also felt like we were just driving on grass.

As the road descended and joined what seemed to be a more well-established road, it also seemed like they intended this road as one-way considering there were rocks set up to make it hard for us to go back the way we came.

Neighboring waterfall on different watercourseRight at the road junction, we noticed another waterfall across the river and gorge, which I believe was called Gljúfurleitarfoss (though this was difficult to photograph).

But getting to the car park and Dynkur was only half the battle.

On the return, sure enough, we easily missed the way we came in and had to follow the road which eventually degenerated into a real scary boulder field in 2km. In this field, some sections had left us no choice but to crawl over some of these boulders that ended up scraping the undercarriage of the car. It was this part of the drive that I feared the most.

Easy-to-miss junction during the return journeyFortunately, we made it through this and eventually made it back to the black sand road we took on the way in (turning right at a junction 2.5km from the boulder fields). Apparently, there was no damage to the car because we weren't charged for it. Needless to say, this was quite an adventure, and I don't think there's any organized tours going here so you'll have to rough it if you want to see it.

But again, I'd have to emphasize for this excursion that it pays to have a good memory and good concentration!

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The black sand roadThe black sand road

Just desolate landscapeJust desolate landscape. Though if you look real carefully, you might see a white patch on the topright, which I think is a glacier

Looking back at some snow-capped volcanic peak while taking a quick break on the road to DynkurLooking back at some snow-capped volcanic peak while taking a quick break on the road to Dynkur

Follow that sign!Follow that sign!

Driving in grassDriving in grass

Another distant look at DynkurAnother distant look at Dynkur

Julie having a distant look at the fallsJulie having a distant look at the falls

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TRIP REPORTS
For more information about our experiences with this waterfall, check out the following travel stories.

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