Initially, we had lost about a half-hour or so on the hike as we apparently lost the trail. But after backtracking, we'd eventually find the correct trail. And so we meandered through blooming fields of purple wildflowers with a three-tiered cascade in the distance. Guided by painted rocks and cairns as well as downed barbed wire fences, we'd eventually get to a fork where the trail led us down through a natural arch towards the level of the river.

We then had to cross the river over a reinforced log. Somehow, Julie lost one of her water bottles here (perhaps from ducking under the wire as it fell from the mesh on her day pack). In any case, we pressed on, and despite the cold weather, we moved enough to be comfortable.

Next, the trail had to climb to the top of the gorge over loose basaltic rocks. It was very steep and certainly not for those fearful of heights. We both wondered how tricky it would be on the way back when we have to descend this part!

Eventually after maybe 90 minutes or so, we finally arrived at the first overlook of the waterfall. It was still somewhat distant and obstructed so we continued onwards. The hike remained progressively uphill and somewhat rough as we had to get around minor gullies and streams, but we'd eventually get to perhaps the closest frontal view of the falls, which was disappointingly more obstructed than before. But on the way back down, we saw there was a way to an in-between overlook.

It was a good thing we went forward pursuing that overlook because it turned out that was where we got the best view of Glymur. Of course, shortcutting from here to the familiar trail on the way back was not easy, but eventually we managed.

Finally by 1pm, we were back at the car park in what turned out to be a rather strenuous four-hour affair.

Having accomplished the major excursion of the day, we started to make our way back to Reykjavík hoping to collect waterfalls along the way. The first one up was the roadside Sjávarfoss. It had some organized rocks nearby in what looked to be ruins or at least some sort of rock maze. In any case, my Icelandic wasn't good enough to figure out what the signs were saying on the spot so we left the site with this mystery.

Next, we took Road 48 along the Laxá River and needed the help of the GPS and map to find Þórufoss along the way. It was a pretty river-type waterfall and I'd bet only locals, anglers, or tourists with a GPS (like us) knew where it was since it was unsigned and not directly visible from the partially gravel road.

After seeing this waterfall, it looked like the skies started to clear up enough for the sun to start coming out. It wasn't long before we'd intersect with Road 36 (Þingvallavegur) but before I could get comfortable cruising, we had to get onto an unpaved rural road as our next targeted waterfall was Tröllafoss.

I was already having doubts about this one as the signpost for the falls pointed us onto a road that was also signposted "4x4". I guess we had to put our rental 4wd to the test and so we proceeded onwards with the GPS as our guide. Eventually, the map would tell us we arrived at our destination, but it appeared there was nothing around here. The road ahead also didn't look very doable in our car. So Julie stayed in while I walked the road in search of the falls. Eventually, I'd find the falls down a steep gorge, but I only got an obstructed view at the top. The scramble down looked way too dangerous so I had to settle for the shot that I got. I had read somewhere that you could easily see this waterfall by horseback and from looking across the gorge, there did appear to be a trail or something but I knew it started from someone's farm so it wasn't public.

At 4pm, I got back to the 4wd and we headed back to Reykjavík.

The rest of the evening was spent walking around Laugarveggur in Miðbær Reykjavík (a bit further than walking distance from our hotel) where there were numerous cafes and shops. We also found a Bónus Supermarket and bought some munchies there at a relatively reasonable price. Forsaking the $30-$50 mains in the cafes, we opted to eat hot dogs (pylsur) at a stand so-called Bæjarins Beztu (literally "the best in town") near our hotel. It was good but hardly filling. We topped off our dining by having soft serve frozen yogurt (softís) in one of the stands nearby.

Tired from a pretty successful day of waterfalling (except for Tröllafoss), Julie and I crashed back at the hotel. Tomorrow, we'll be doing the Golden Circle - rain or shine...

So after our brekkie, we left town after 8am. However, as we did the 90-minute drive towards Gullfoss, the skies became dominantly overcast. Nonetheless, we got to the car park for the falls at around 10am and took what photos that we could while battling pocket swarms of midges. I vowed to return to Gullfoss thinking the weather might improve for rainbows later in the afternoon. However, Julie was already ecstatic that she could get wi-fi internet from the parking lot at Gullfoss.

By about 1pm, we backtracked and arrived at Geysir (actually the area is more formally known as Haukadalur Valley). Actually, it was the smaller geyser Strokkur that was putting on a show. It appeared that Geysir doesn't really erupt regularly and we could tell it wasn't going to perform when we were there since no one was gathering around it. Strokkur seemed to go off usually every 5-10 minutes or so. Sometimes it would shoot up real high and other times it put throw up a dud.

It was fun watching what would come out next, but we also checked out other thermal springs and vents around the area. Before we got carried away with the Strokkur performances, we got back to the car and headed back to Gullfoss at 2:15pm.

It was nearly 3pm when we returned to Gullfoss. The skies were still overcast, but there were patches of blue skies between the clouds. When the sun peeked through the clouds, Gullfoss' mist did indeed put on a rainbow. Of course, I took advantage of this and spent the next hour re-shooting the waterfall from all sorts of angles.

I did notice people crossing the ropes to get onto the soggy grassy plateau below the overlooks. I'd eventually join them and battle even more midges, but I reckoned the photos weren't that much better.

But what was really cool was going back to the uppermost overlook, where you could see a faint but huge arcing rainbow with people looking like ants besides Gullfoss.

It was nearly 4pm when this bit of waterfalling ended. We then went looking for the Faxi waterfall, which I'd like to think of as Gullfoss, Jr. After getting to its signed turnoff, we checked out the falls from the top along with a handful of other people.

But from up here, the base certainly looked easily accessible and inviting. So we went down there and proceeded to get right next to the salmon ladder flanking the left side of the falls. It was misty and quite a challenge to take photos without water getting on the lens down here.

Finally it was past 4:30pm when we got back to the car and started heading for Þingvellir (pronounced like "thing vetlir"). It took a while to get there from Gullfoss, but we'd eventually get to the car park for Lögberg (Law Rock) which is within view of Öxarárfoss, the last waterfall of this busy day.

Þingvellir was the historic place where assemblies (called alþing) took place and laws were written down. We spent quite a bit of time walking around the hallowed grounds while reading all the interpretive signs. This late afternoon, it was very quiet as the skies were bright and the sun was still strong.

The rift valley here was interesting to see as we were right where the North American and European plates drifted apart.

Walking around Þingvellir was already draining as we spent the whole day touring, but we still had to check out the last waterfall of the day Öxarárfoss. My knees were acting up from the strenuous Glymur hike yesterday so climbing up to the falls was a painful affair. Even more annoying was the fact that we were looking against the sun.

Even though it was getting late in the day, I patiently awaited the clouds to momentarily block the sun to get what photos I could of the man-intervened waterfall.

Our Golden Circle excursion pretty much ended at 7:30pm and we made our way back to Reykjavík. During the drive, we couldn't help but notice the heaps of campervans and SUVs going the other way. Was there some function, party, or gathering going on? We wouldn't know the answer, but it certainly got our attention.

The day finally ended with a dinner at the Icelandic Fish and Chips near our hotel in Reykjavík. Despite seeing somewhat reasonable seafood prices compared to other cafes and restaurants, we still ended up paying around $50US for battered haddock and cod along with a mango salad, potato, skyr (an icelandic yogurt dessert), and a mango chutney mayonnaise.

It was a long but eventful day, but now we have to pack and get ready for some serious driving towards Iceland's West and Westfjords.