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Catarata Gocta is perhaps the most impressive waterfall in all of Peru. This waterfall was said to be "discovered" by westerners in 2005 when Stefan Ziemendorff (I must've misheard our guide because I thought he said Stefan Millandorf) noticed the waterfall during an archaeological expedition. In the following year, he was part of a follow-up expedition that measured the total height of the waterfall at 771m consisting of an upper leap of 230m and a lower leap of 541m. We won't get into details about whether this is the 3rd tallest or 5th tallest or 14th tallest waterfall in the world when there's no consensus on a consistent definition of a waterfall. By the way, our guide mentioned that the name of the waterfall was derived from the sound that resident monkeys made.
We were able to experience this waterfall in two different ways. The first way involved hiking to the base of the upper waterfall. The second way involved hiking to the base of the lower waterfall.
For the hike to the upper waterfall, we started from the village of San Pablo. For the first 2 hours, we hiked along a taxing uphill trail with a few steeper sections along the way. The trail skirted a wide ledge overlooking Cocachimba and the valley through which Gocta's stream flows. Along the way, we passed by a short detour to a cave with rock art, a contextual view of Catarata de Golondrina, and a farm with a dog that liked to follow us. Eventually, we reached an exposed overlook of the entire waterfall.
About another hour later, our hike crossed over part of the Chorro Negro waterfall before it led us to the bottom of the Upper Catarata Gocta. There were lots of ladders in order to get right up to the base. Some trail work was going on during our visit in April 2008 so I'd imagine future visitors should have less trouble than we had negotiating this steep part of the hike.
Overall, the whole out-and-back hike took us about 7 hours including a few breaks here and there.
As for the hike to the lower waterfall, we started from the village of Cocachimba. Even though we could see the waterfall from the approach to the village, it was definitely worth the trouble to get a closer look since the views were so distant.
The trail involved lots more up-and-down hiking as we had to get through at least two gullies (one of them crossed the stream containing Salto Golondrina). During our trip, the swinging bridge over this stream wasn't complete so we had to climb down the steep embankment and cross the stream before climbing back up the other side of the embankment. We also noticed lots of rocks along the trail with shell-like fossils as well as an old Chachas ruin.
About 3 hours into the hike, we finally reached the base of the waterfall where we were close enough that we could only see the lower waterfall (the upper waterfall was concealed by the tall cliff in front of us). Overall, the time we spent on this excursion for the entire round trip was also 7 hours.
Given all that this hike offers in addition to the Catarata Gocta, I have to believe that this has all the makings of a world class attraction. However, Julie and I do fear that continued acts of vandalism (like taking the fossilized rocks from the trail) might ultimately take away from its world class appeal.
Directions: Since we were guided here, we can't provide exact driving directions. However, we can say that it took us about 2 hours to drive from Pomacochas to the village of San Pablo for the Upper Gocta Waterfall. It took us another hour to drive from San Pablo to Cocachimba, where the trail to the base of the Lower Gocta Waterfall starts.
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