Wigmore's Waterfall (Papua Waterfall)

Wigmore's Waterfall (also known as Papua in the Cook Island's Maori tongue [or Papua Waterfall]) is the lone waterfall attraction that we're aware of throughout the

In any case, we did hear some running water from somewhere above the falls, but hardly any (if at all) flowed over the precipice and into the plunge pool below. Given that there was a pipe running across the top of the falls as part of the Papua Intake, perhaps there might be a bit of manmade intervention further restraining this waterfall's performance.

So given our observations, I'd argue that this waterfall only flows after sustained heavy downpours (like several consecutive days worth of rain). Otherwise, there'll be nothing but ponds, mud, wet rocks, and tons of mosquitoes. Perhaps if you were to plan your trip, this waterfall may only be worth a bother in the February or March timeframe when the Cook Islands are well into latter stages of the Wet Season thereby giving the waterfall's drainage a chance to saturate.

Directions: As for logistics, the easy-to-miss turnoff for the falls is near the failed Sheraton Resort just west of the bridge near the Vaima Restaurant. The potholed road forks inland from the main circle-island road and starts off unsealed before going sealed again (still with plenty of potholes though) beyond the failed Sheraton. Rental cars and even scooters should have no problems getting to the end of the road and the picnic area right at the Wigmore's Waterfall itself. Moreover, this road is also [the last] part of the roughly 4-hr Cross-Island Track that cuts right through the mountainous interior of Rarotonga passing by Te Rua Manga (the Needle) as well as the Wigmore's Waterfall.

That failed Sheraton, by the way, was a result of a massive investment undertaken by the government and stakeholders overseas that ended up going awry due to some of those overseas stakeholders squandering (perhaps stealing?) the money. The end result is a big scar on the southern side of Rarotonga as well as a large part of the country's national debt.

On the flip side, perhaps the fact that the Cook Islands doesn't have multinational mega resorts like this might be a blessing in disguise. After all, the country is allowed to maintain its laid back and largely non-commercialized identity; thereby coming closer to embodying that tropical paradise that overseas visitors seek which some of the other South Pacific islands have lost or are losing to commercialism.

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Sign about the Papua Water Intake

Another look at the dry Wigmore's Waterfall

Main island road near the easy-to-miss turnoff for the falls

Looking back at the failed Sheraton towards the mountains

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• January 12, 2010

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