Portrero John Falls was a waterfall that had eluded us ever since we were first made aware of it in an old waterfall book from Chris Schaffer back around 2003 or 2004. After seeing this waterfall make an appearance in one of Ann Marie Brown's later editions of her California Waterfalls book, we were waiting for the right opportunity to finally experience this falls. However, for one reason or another, that opportunity never came due to other waterfalling priorities followed by a multi-year drought that had plagued us for the last 5-6 years. It wasn't until mid-March in 2017 when we finally had enough rain in the Winter season to give us the confidence to overcome the time commitment and difficulty to give this falls a try. And as you can see from the photo at the top of this page, we weren't disappointed in this multi-tiered waterfall dropping down a bright sloping cliff over an estimated cumulative height of 70ft.
In order to reach this falls, we had to overcome many obstacles that would deter the most casual visitors. The first obstacle was the driving distance (at least as far as a day trip from say Orange County would be concerned), which we'll get to in the driving directions below. Once we got to the unassuming Portrero John Trailhead, we then had to follow a pretty well-established trail that criss-crossed Portrero John Creek a seemingly uncountable number of times. Depending on the water level of the creek, one might need water shoes (I used Keens just in case) instead of Gore-tex high-top hiking boots. There were a handful of head-scratching moments when it came to the best spots to cross the creek or scramble past eroded embankment obstacles, but for the most part, the first 1.6 miles of the hike along the trail was fairly straightforward.
In this initial 1.6-mile stretch of the Portrero John Trail, we initially passed through a stretch where we were within a narrow yet attractive gorge with impressive cliff formations and some cooling shade due to the height of the flanking cliffs. As we went through the gorge, we then had to hike through a wide open expanse where shade was limited and prickly brush and bare trees were pretty much the tallest things around us except for mountains and Southern Utah-like cliffs way in the distance. Even though the trail would continue to cross Portrero John Creek several more times in this stretch, the arid climate and heat from the intense sun in this area reminded us that we were wise to bring at least 2 liters of water per person. Eventually after an hour or so from the start of the hike, the trail would reach the so-called Portrero John Camp though there was no signage or obvious infrastructure indicating its presence. We just suspected that we made it there due to some organized clearings across Portrero John Creek from the main trail.
Continuing on after the camp, the mountains had closed in and the trail would eventually coincide with Portrero John Creek. It was here that we had to negotiate the next major obstacle in reaching the falls - the stream scrambling. While we were actively looking for trails alongside Portrero John Creek, more often than not, we were better off just doing the awkward scramble through creek boulders and climbing over fallen trees or pushing aside whipping branches in order to push forward. Aside from an interesting striated cliff that reminded me of a poor man's version of The Wave in Paria Canyon near the Arizona-Utah border, this 1.2-mile scramble was for the most part featureless. The slow progress of the scramble also meant that this stretch would take another hour.
Eventually, the gorge itself and the creek would become one as we'd eventually find ourselves having to climb waterfalls and cascades themselves. Luckily for us, there were some rock cairns (though they may not necessarily be there all the time) hinting to us where were the easiest spots to make the traverse. At other times, there were ledges that we were able to get a foothold on, especially where the cascades and minor waterfalls had formed notches in the underlying bedrock. Once we got to the top of the series of waterfalls and cascades, we eventually found ourselves right at the base of the lower drop of Portrero John Falls. When viewed directly, we could see the more impressive upper drop right behind it, but in order to get there, we had to make a steep scramble up a steep, slippery, and somewhat overgrown trail-of-use to the left of the lower waterfall, which eventually got us to the area above the lower drop. Then, we were able to make the final descent to get right up to the base of the main drop of Portrero John Falls.
While it took Mom and I about 2.5 hours to get here, there wasn't a whole lot of shade around this falls to really enjoy a picnic here. Rather, it seemed more like a good spot to cool off on a hot day provided there was water. Given the amount of trouble it took to get here, we were the only ones at the falls as well as on the trail on the Sunday that we showed up. It was hard to say just how reliable the falls would be flowing year in and year out, but the state you see the falls in on this page pretty much reflected nearly a month without significant rain after the nearly record rains we had been getting between December and February.
When it came time to head back to the trailhead, scramble back to the Portrero John Campground was tricky as we happened to lose the trail as we were too focused on the stream scrambling. But once we regained the main trail, the hike was once again pretty straightforward, especially compared to the scrambling on Portrero John Creek. When we got back to the trailhead, we wound up spending about 5 hours away from the car to go the roughly 5.6 miles round trip. The time spent that I'm quoting included our photo stops and the brief half-hour picnic to prepare ourselves for the return scramble and hike. In addition to leg and foot cramps, our arms and faces received quite a few scratches from having to brush up against overgrowth and tree branches that were in the way. Indeed, this was definitely not a family friendly hike, and it was a good thing I didn't bring my young daughter along on this one.
During the wide open part of the hike to the Portrero John Camp, we noticed wrinkly cliffs like this that kind of reminded me of the type of scenery more typically found in Southern Utah
This was the striated cliff during the stream scramble that reminded me very much of a poor man's version of The Wave in Paria Canyon by the Utah-Arizona border
While scenic in its own right, this cascade and notch was actually a scrambling obstacle right before the Portrero John Falls
The Portrero John Trailhead besides the Maricopa Hwy 33
Mom starting on the Portrero John Trail, which was pretty straightforward to follow initially
It didn't take long before we encountered our first crossing of Portrero John Creek, which turned out to be one of at least 20
The Portrero John Creek Crossings came quickly and frequently
The gorge in the beginning of the hike included some scenic cliffs like this one
Entering the Sespe Wilderness after perhaps the third creek crossing
After getting through the initial gorge, the trail then meandered through a pretty open field of brush and trees with mountains and cliffs in the distance
Most of the first 1.6 miles of hiking was pretty straightforward to follow though on some of the stream crossings (like what's shown here), we had to figure out the safest and easiest way to scramble down eroding embankments to get across
During the open part of the Portrero John Trail, we also meandered past some interesting rock formations like this one, which seemed to be full of holes
Continuing further along the wide open part of the Portrero John Trail. It was a good thing we brought plenty of water
This was an interesting part of the Portrero John Trail where an underground spring appeared to have made the trail wet and muddy
Beyond the Portrero John Camp, the trail started to coincide with Portrero John Creek
Overgrown scrambles like this made us reconsider avoiding scrambling directly in the Portrero John Creek
As the gorge walls continued closing in, resistance was futile and we pretty much had to stay in or alongside the water
Mom scrambling directly in Portrero John Creek
This striated cliff landmark was one of the mental points of interest we kept track of during the creek scramble
The creek scrambling continued to get more awkward the further we went
Continuing to negotiate fallen branches and loose rocks on Portrero John Creek
By this point of the creek scramble (probably about an hour beyond Portrero John Camp), we wondered when the payoff will finally come
After finally starting to see some semblance of a waterfall or cascades taller than 5ft, we then had to scramble up these obstacles
More scrambling obstacles around minor waterfalls on Portrero John Creek
A scrambling obstacle where Mom had to sit and scoot and slide to proceed
Mom trying to get past this cascade and notch obstacle, which happened to be right before the lower drop of Portrero John Falls
Mom approaching the lower drop of Portrero John Falls
Looking directly at the two tiers making up Portrero John Falls
Mom doing the steep scramble to get up past the lower drop of the falls
Descending towards the main drop of Portrero John Falls
Looking directly at the upper tier of Portrero John Falls
After having our fill of the main drop, we now had to scramble back down to the base of the lower Portrero John Falls
Mom making the scramble back towards Portrero John Camp
This was one of the more awkward parts of the stream scramble on the return hike
While making the return scramble was in some ways easier because we had an idea of where we needed to be or go, it was also tricky to regain the trail that we had taken earlier
Continuing the return scramble on Portrero John Creek
Shortly after passing the Portrero John Camp, we were back in the open terrain
This was one of the scrambling obstacles by a creek crossing that we had to do again on the return hike
Getting back into the scenic gorge near the Portrero John Trailhead
We visited Portrero John Falls as a day trip from Los Angeles, but this definitely stretches the limits of what can be accomplished in a day, especially if you're coming up from Orange County. For starters, we had get an early start before 8am as we had to drive about 2.5 hours to get from home to the Portrero John Trailhead. Given the early start, we didn't have too much traffic to contend with on both the I-5 and US101 Freeways. However, on the return drive, we almost always had to face traffic on both freeways late in the afternoon, which would make this more like a 3-hour drive. Sandwiched in between the 5.5 hours of driving was the 5 hour hike. So you can see the kind of time commitment necessary to do this excursion in a day.
Regardless, after driving nearly 120 miles or so from around Orange County all the way to Ventura, we then got off the US101 Freeway and went onto Hwy 33 north towards Ojai. This stretch along the Hwy 33 was about 13 miles and it took us around 20 minutes. Once near Ojai, we then turned left at the light to continue on the Hwy 33, which was now known as the Maricopa Highway. We'd continue driving for on the Maricopa Highway for the next 21 miles as the road wound through the mountains of the Sespe Wilderness as well as through the scenic Wheeler Gorge. Eventually, we'd reach a pullout next to a bridge over Portrero John Creek (a little over 6 miles past the Rose Valley Road turnoff), which had room for perhaps two or three cars. There was a brown sign saying "Portrero John Trailhead" next to the bridge, which gave us the confidence that we were in the right spot.
Overall, the Portrero John Trailhead was about 22 miles (over 30 minutes drive) north of Ojai, 40 miles (about an hour drive) north of Ventura, 62 miles (about 75 minutes drive) northwest of Thousand Oaks, 101 miles (about 2 hours drive) northwest of downtown Los Angeles, and about 129 miles (about 2.5 hours drive) northwest of Anaheim. Note, all of these times did not take traffic and road congestion into account so the drive times could easily exceed what was stated here.
You can use the form below, but if you find our host's interface too troublesome to use (especially if you're trying to upload photos), then just send a text submission anyways using the form, but also let us know that you'd like to attach photos. If you've provided an email address via the form, then we can reply back acknowledging your request, and you can then reply to that email with your photo attachments. We're very sorry about this, but there's not much we can do about SBI's terrible interface.