Kamuiwakka Waterfall (Kamuiwakka-no-taki [カムイワッカの滝])

Shiretoko National Park, Hokkaido, Japan

About Kamuiwakka Waterfall (Kamuiwakka-no-taki [カムイワッカの滝])


Hiking Distance: tour or 2.4km river walk
Suggested Time: 4 hours (boat tour) or at least 3 hours (drive and river walk)

Date first visited: 2009-06-08
Date last visited: 2023-07-18

Waterfall Latitude: 44.15863
Waterfall Longitude: 145.12236

Waterfall Safety and Common Sense

The Kamuiwakka Waterfall (Kamuiwakka-no-taki [カムイワッカの滝]; Kamuiwakka Falls) was a pretty well-known rotemburo (natural outdoor hot springs) deep in the wild Shiretoko National Park on the island of Hokkaido.

Over the years, we managed to experience this thermal springs-fed waterfall in a couple of different ways, and we’ll break them down in this write-up.

Shiretoko_tour_091_06072009 - The Kamuiwakka Waterfall
The Kamuiwakka Waterfall

But one thing was for certain after our last trip, and that is the Kamuiwakka Waterfall is no longer a rotemburo experience that it might have been in the past as it’s now more of an adventure-type natural attraction.

Experiencing the Kamuiwakka Waterfall by boat

When we first experienced the Kamuiwakka Waterfall back in June 2009, we did it by boat.

We ended up taking a somewhat pricey four-hour tour from the town of Utoro, which encompassed the western coastline all the way up to the tip of the Shiretoko Peninsula.

At that tip, we witnessed a lighthouse from a distance before turning back.

Shiretoko_tour_081_06072009 - Context of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall's lowest tier as seen from the boat tour
Context of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall’s lowest tier as seen from the boat tour

Nevertheless, the Kamuiwakka Falls was merely one of many attractions on that sightseeing tour, which encompassed many other waterfalls including the Furepe Waterfall.

The striking thing about the Kamuiwakka Falls experience by boat was that we were able to see its most dramatic sections dropping into the Sea of Okhotsk.

We knew that the Kamuiwakka Stream had special properties for a waterfall thanks to its acidic sulphur-rich water, which colored its underlying rocks yellow while also causing interesting mixture patterns when interacting with the sea’s saltwater.

I don’t think it’s possible to experience the waterfall in this manner by land, which makes the boat tour all the more interesting.

Shiretoko_tour_136_06072009 - A bear sighting during our boat tour encompassing the Kamuiwakka Waterfall and the rest of the Shiretoko Peninsula's west side
A bear sighting during our boat tour encompassing the Kamuiwakka Waterfall and the rest of the Shiretoko Peninsula’s west side

Yet in addition to waterfalls, our boat tour also allowed us to witness (from a safe distance) brown bears doing their thing while also allowing us to witness eagles, sea birds, and even dolphins!

Moreover, the boat tour also allowed us a bit of scenic sightseeing as we managed to witness Mt Rausu rising steeply over the Sea of Okhotsk.

Experiencing the Kamuiwakka Waterfall by land

Prior to the Kamuiwakka Waterfall being regulated under the jurisdiction of Shiretoko National Park as a UNESCO World Heritage Area, accessing the falls was a matter of will and timing.

After all, there used to be shuttle bus that would have taken people to the trailhead on an unsealed road through bear country, which only ran from July 15 to August 15.

Kamuiwakka_090_07172023 - The fourth and final waterfall obstacle that we encountered on our Kamuiwakka Waterfall river walk adventure
The fourth and final waterfall obstacle that we encountered on our Kamuiwakka Waterfall river walk adventure

However, after some issues with crowds and rockfall dangers with the increased visitation (thanks to the increased notoriety of this area), this has now become a more regulated waterfall adventure experience as opposed to the rotemburo it once was.

And this was ultimately how we wound up booking a visit through the Shiretoko Visitor Center while renting out their sticky spider-rubber shoes and getting a helmet at the trailhead.

In a way, we got lucky even booking this experience as it was a total last-minute decision after the Furepe Waterfall hike was closed due to bear activity (funny how things work out like that sometimes).

In any case, this river walk adventure was only about 1.2km each way according to my trip logs, but it involved climbing up at least four “major” waterfall obstacles as well as stream walking.

Kamuiwakka_076_07172023 - Climbing up the tricky third waterfall obstacle on the Kamuiwakka Stream
Climbing up the tricky third waterfall obstacle on the Kamuiwakka Stream

There was a fifth waterfall (the one that also had the rotemburo), but roped barriers only allowed us to get up to the fourth waterfall and no further (and they didn’t let us bathe in the warm water of that waterfall’s plunge pool).

As a result, our adventure took between 1-2 hours, and there was one staffer in the river to help with some of the trouble spots.

Speaking of the trouble spots, perhaps the third waterfall obstacle was the trickiest (especially on the way back down) as it involved climbing directly in the cascading waterfall, which is kind of counterintuitive.

The main reason why it’s better to walk in the waterfall rather than avoiding it is that the acidic nature of the Kamuiwakka Stream prevents algae from growing on the bedrock (which would have made things slick).

Kamuiwakka_121_07172023 - One of the many upper tiers of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall coloring its underlying stream bed both yellow and green thanks to the rather unusual nature of the warm stream
One of the many upper tiers of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall coloring its underlying stream bed both yellow and green thanks to the rather unusual nature of the warm stream

As for reaching the trailhead, that involved a bit of a 45-minute drive on a narrow, unpaved road (which we’ll discuss more deeply in the directions).

The Kamuiwakka Waterfall Nomenclature

Finally, when we first visited the falls, we didn’t get an answer on what the word “kamuiwakka” means.

However, we did know it’s Ainu, who are the indigenous peoples of Hokkaido and the surrounding islands as well as Northern Honshu.

We suspected the Ainu origin of the word because of the many Japanese sound characters using katakana in its place name, which also hinted to us that the word was not Japanese to begin with.

Shiretoko_tour_097_06072009 - Another look at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall revealing some hidden tiers further upstream. Also notice the yellow rocks fronting the waterfall, which was strong evidence of the presence of sulfur in its stream
Another look at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall revealing some hidden tiers further upstream. Also notice the yellow rocks fronting the waterfall, which was strong evidence of the presence of sulfur in its stream

Years later, we learned from the Shiretoko Visitor Center that the word roughly translates as “water of the Gods” in the Ainu language.

And given the rather unique properties of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall that we’ve discussed earlier on in this page, I guess that kind of makes sense!

Authorities

The Kamuiwakka Waterfall resides near Shari in the Hokkaido Prefecture, Japan. It is administered by the Shiretoko National Park. For information or inquiries about the area as well as current conditions, you can try visiting the Ministry of the Environment website.

Kamuiwakka_004_iPhone_07182023 - An unexpected deer encounter while driving the unpaved road to the Kamuiwakka Falls Trailhead during our July 2023 visit
Drive_to_Kamuiwakka_027_MingSung_07182023 - Trying to not get too tripped up by potholes along the narrow gravel road to the Kamuiwakka Waterfall in July 2023
Kamuiwakka_018_iPhone_07182023 - An unexpected deer herd grazing by the unpaved road to the Kamuiwakka Waterfall during our July 2023 visit
Drive_to_Kamuiwakka_035_MingSung_07182023 - Wildflowers blooming along this cliff wall while driving towards the Kamuiwakka Falls Trailhead in July 2023
Kamuiwakka_004_07172023 - Approaching the trailhead for the Kamuiwakka Waterfall where we picked up our helmets and got some safety briefing from a staffer there
Kamuiwakka_005_07172023 - Looking back at some of the limited parking spaces at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall, which gave us an appreciation for why they regulated access to this area since it could fill up really quick without advanced bookings
Kamuiwakka_006_07172023 - Looking upstream from the bridge at one of what turned out to be many tiers of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall
Kamuiwakka_008_07172023 - Another couple about to get started on their river walk up the Kamuiwakka Waterfall
Kamuiwakka_014_07172023 - My nephew and mom going up the most slippery part of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall adventure due to the muddiness of this slope
Kamuiwakka_015_07172023 - Mom nephew and mom about to enter the steamy Kamuiwakka Stream
Kamuiwakka_018_07172023 - Josh and Mom initially hugging the left side of this cascade on the Kamuiwakka Stream to proceed further upstream during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_023_07172023 - Continuing to climb up the Kamuiwakka Stream to explore the waterfall's many tiers during a foggy morning in July 2023
Kamuiwakka_026_07172023 - More climbing up some of the intermediate tiers of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_028_07172023 - I believe that this was the first waterfall obstacle that we encountered on the way up the Kamuiwakka Waterfall during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_034_07172023 - Looking back downstream at part of the cascade before the first major obstacle on the Kamuiwakka Waterfall series in July 2023
Kamuiwakka_038_07172023 - Looking down at the yellowish green bedrock caused by the acidic properties of the Kamuiwakka Stream
Kamuiwakka_043_07172023 - Josh and Mom climbing up the next waterfall obstacle en route to the second major waterfall obstacle during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_061_07172023 - I believe that this was the second major waterfall obstacle that we had to climb during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_067_07172023 - Continuing to climb up some more of the intermediate tiers of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_074_07172023 - Josh going up the third and trickiest of the major waterfall obstacles on the Kamuiwakka Waterfall Experience during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_080_07172023 - More climbing up some of the intermediate tiers of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall beyond the tricky third obstacle during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_088_07172023 - Approaching the rope barriers marking the 4th and last of the allowable Kamuiwakka Waterfalls that we could experience during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_092_07172023 - Facing the last of the waterfall obstacles that we were allowed to witness on the Kamuiwakka Stream. Notice that no one was bathing in the plunge pool here since the rope barricade was actually before it during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_096_07172023 - Going down the yellow bedrock that was surprisingly sticky during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_100_07172023 - Looking back across some of the intermediate tiers of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall as we were heading back down during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_102_07172023 - Continuing to descend the Kamuiwakka Stream on the way back during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_106_07172023 - Last look at the tricky third waterfall obstacle of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_112_07172023 - Looking back at another person about to climb one of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall obstacles (I think this was the 2nd major one) during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_116_07172023 - Looking up alongside one of the attractive Kamuiwakka Waterfalls on the way back during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_119_07172023 - Context of Mom and Josh making their way back down the Kamuiwakka Waterfall during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_122_07172023 - Looking back at another couple about to wade their way up some of the cascades of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_125_07172023 - Looking down at an interesting waterwheel near the start or end of our Kamuiwakka Waterfall experience in July 2023
Kamuiwakka_126_07172023 - Closer look at that natural waterwheel on the Kamuiwakka Stream during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_130_07172023 - It seemed like the morning fog had gotten thicker by the end of our Kamuiwakka Waterfall July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_134_07172023 - Last look back up at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall as we were about to leave the stream to conclude our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_140_07172023 - Going back down the slippery and muddy slope to end our Kamuiwakka Waterfall experience in July 2023
Kamuiwakka_144_07172023 - Last chance to use the portapotty toilets before heading out. Notice that further up this road, there was a gate blocking any further public access during our July 2023 visit
Kamuiwakka_145_07172023 - One vehicle about to drive off from the Kamuiwakka Waterfall Trailhead, which should give you an indication of how narrow the unpaved road is as well as how much limited space there was during our July 2023 visit
Utoro_010_06072009 - A pair of dogs who loved being petted while we waited for our Shiretoko boat tour in Utoro
Shiretoko_tour_001_06072009 - Looking back at the town of Utoro as the Shiretoko boat tour started along the western side of the peninsula
Shiretoko_tour_030_06072009 - View along the Shiretoko coastline as we embarked on our boat tour
Shiretoko_tour_066_06072009 - The Kamuiwakka Waterfall starting to come into view just as a flock of birds darted before it
Shiretoko_tour_086_06072009 - Angled closeup look at the last tier of Kamuiwakka-no-taki (note the yellow rocks right on the coastline attesting to the sulphurous nature of the water)
Shiretoko_tour_102_06072009 - Slightly angled direct look back at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall. Look again at the presence of the yellow rocks fronting the waterfall
Shiretoko_tour_318_06072009 - A more distant direct look at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall revealing more hidden tiers further upstream
Shiretoko_tour_108_06072009 - Looking back at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall along some interestingly-shaped coastal rocks along the shore
Shiretoko_tour_034_jx_06072009 - Looking back at the Kamuiwakka Waterfall and a tiny ephemeral companion to its left.  Note the mix of sulphur-infused freshwater and the darker green saltwater
Shiretoko_tour_304_06072009 - Some volcanic peak we noticed during the boat ride providing further evidence of volcanism in these parts so the presence of onsens and rotemburos shouldn't be surprising
Shiretoko_tour_275_06072009 - An interesting small sea arch somewhere near the turnaround point of our boat tour of the Shiretoko Peninsula
Utoro_009_jx_06072009 - When we were done with our boat tour, we had lunch at a very good place in Utoro where we got this seafood sashimi rice bowl that could very well have been the freshest we had ever eaten
Utoro_012_06072009 - Looking back at the town of Utoro as we headed towards Shiretoko National Park
Utoro_015_jx_06072009 - The road to Shiretoko National Park was what we had to take to get to the Shiretoko Goko (5 Lakes), but the turnoff for the Kamuiwakka Waterfall was on the way
Shiretoko_Goko_016_06072009 - The boardwalk that provided us with beautiful vistas as well as letting us get close to the five lakes making up the Shiretoko Goko
Utoro_040_06072009 - We saw these deer grazing in a scenic meadow as we headed back towards Utoro


There are a couple of different ways to experience the Kamuiwakka Waterfall, and we’ll describe the driving directions for each way.

First, the boat excursion we went on was right within the Utoro township.

Utoro_050_07172023 - Looking towards the harbor area for the town of Utoro, where the sightseeing boat tours would start from
Looking towards the harbor area for the town of Utoro, where the sightseeing boat tours would start from

I believe all the tour operators on these types of boat tours are based on the docks here, which can be accessed on a fairly obvious road leaving Hwy 334 towards the sea (turning left at the lone traffic light in town).

As for the land-based tour of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall, from the Utoro township, we drove about 5km from the traffic light in Utoro towards the Shiretoko Visitor Center.

Just beyond the visitor center, there was a signed spur road leading to the left, which we then followed for about 8km towards a signed fork in the road.

The road to the left continued to the Shiretoko Goko (5 Lakes) while the fork on the right became an unpaved road leading to the Kamuiwakka Waterfall.

Drive_to_Kamuiwakka_048_MingSung_07182023 - Approaching the car park and trailhead area for the Kamuiwakka Waterfall after driving somewhat extensively on the narrow unpaved road to get here on a foggy and misty morning
Approaching the car park and trailhead area for the Kamuiwakka Waterfall after driving somewhat extensively on the narrow unpaved road to get here on a foggy and misty morning

During our visit in July 2023, there was one staffer there checking to make sure you have a booking before letting you proceed (I think that’s one of the ways they regulate traffic here).

Once we got past the staffer, we then drove the remaining 10km on the narrow, unpaved road where we definitely had to watch out for potholes, wildlife, and cliff exposure (especially when there’s oncoming traffic).

We knew we got to the Kamuiwakka Trailhead when we saw parking spaces on either side of a bridge over the Kamuiwakka Stream as well as some temporary buildings acting as a local office.

Besides, beyond this area, the road was gated off so any further driving would only be for authorized vehicles so it’s not like you’re going to drive past this trailhead.

Kamuiwakka_010_07172023 - The trailhead area for the Kamuiwakka Waterfall where we got our helmets and a safety briefing
The trailhead area for the Kamuiwakka Waterfall where we got our helmets and a safety briefing

Overall, the drive from the Shiretoko Visitor Center to the Kamuiwakka Falls Trailhead took us about 45 minutes without being too rushed.

For geographical context, it took us a pretty brutally long and slow 5 hours of driving to get from Asahikawa to Utoro by way of Abashiri and Shari. Asahikawa was 137km (2 hours by car or 2 hours by train) northeast of Sapporo. Sapporo was about 9.5 hours by train or 90 minutes by flight from Tokyo. It was also possible to fly to Sapporo from Osaka (under 2 hours) or Kobe (2 hours; this was how we did it on our trip).

Find A Place To Stay

Climbing up some initial cascades before stopping at the next significant waterfall on the Kamuiwakka Stream


Figuring out on our own how to get to the major cascades on Kamuiwakka Stream with the video ending at perhaps the 2nd waterfall obstacle


Long sweep starting with downstream views before panning upstream and then walking within the cascade to the next major obstacle


Video showing a long cascade that I climbed after a boulder field before panning back to show a top down view of the cascade


Brief sweep showing the second tricky waterfall obstacle where we had to climb to the right side of it


Video showing Josh climbing the 3rd major waterfall obstacle before posing for the camera partway up


Brief sweep showing the 4th waterfall obstacle before we had to turn back


Long video showing Josh and Mom going down the trickiest part of the descent of the 3rd major waterfall obstacle on the way back


Descending the first major waterfall obstacle while walking alongside a waterwheel before getting to its base and panning back at the falls


Short bottom up sweep of the falls with loud speakers blaring in the background

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Tagged with: utoro, shiretoko, national park, hokkaido, kamuiwakka, onsen, okhotsk, ainu, restricted, bears, hot springs, geothermal, japan, waterfall



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Johnny Cheng

About Johnny Cheng

Johnny Cheng is the founder of the World of Waterfalls and author of the award-winning A Guide to New Zealand Waterfalls. Over the last 2 decades, he has visited thousands of waterfalls in over 40 countries around the world and nearly 40 states in the USA.
Read More About Johnny | A Guide to New Zealand Waterfalls.