Shomyo Waterfall (Shomyo-daki [称名滝] and Hannoki Waterfall (Hannoki-no-taki [榛の木の滝])

Tateyama, Toyama, Japan

About Shomyo Waterfall (Shomyo-daki [称名滝] and Hannoki Waterfall (Hannoki-no-taki [榛の木の滝])

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The Shomyo Waterfall (Shomyo-daki [称名滝]; Shomyo Great Falls or just Shomyo Falls) and Hannoki Waterfall (Hannoki-no-taki [榛の木の滝]; Hannoki Falls) comprised the twin towers of waterfalls in the Japan Alps.

Shomyo Daki was said to the tallest permanent waterfall in Japan at a cumulative height of 350m.

Shomyo_015_05292009 - The tandem of the Shomyo Waterfall (left) and the Hannoki Waterfall (right)
The tandem of the Shomyo Waterfall (left) and the Hannoki Waterfall (right)

In the picture above, the namesake Shomyodaki was on the left, and the thinner Hannoki-no-taki was on the right.

The latter was said to be Japan’s tallest waterfall overall, but it was also said to be seasonal as it would disappear rapidly when the snowpack was mostly depleted.

Experiencing both the Shomyo Waterfall and the Hannoki Waterfall

Our experience with Shomyo Waterfall and Hannoki Waterfall almost resulted in utter disappointment due to nasty weather.

Of course Julie and I have learned over the years of waterfalling that tall waterfalls in general tended to be more exposed to the whims of the fickle mountainous weather where we had to worry about clouds blocking the views.

Shomyo_001_jx_05292009 - Getting a serious drenching at the start of our walk, which made us real concerned about whether we'd even be seeing Shomyo-daki and Hannoki-no-taki
Getting a serious drenching at the start of our walk, which made us real concerned about whether we’d even be seeing Shomyo-daki and Hannoki-no-taki

And in our case, we visited on a day where we started the 30- to 45-minute walk under some pouring rain and low clouds!

Yet despite the drenching that we took and the bleak outlook the moment we started walking from the bus stop, I was glad that we pushed forward.

Indeed, by some minor miracle, the waterfall deities smiled upon us as the nasty weather seemed to relent right at the Shomyo Bridge in front of the waterfalls!

In fact, as we lingered here (trying real hard to do this without missing the next bus departure back to the Tateyama train station), the weather seemed to start clearing up.

Shomyo_015_jx_05292009 - Looking directly at the Shomyo Waterfall from the sheltered lookout while another round of rain was happening
Looking directly at the Shomyo Waterfall from the sheltered lookout while another round of rain was happening

When the reality had set in that we had to leave or else wait over another hour for the next bus (and possibly longer given the train schedule we were coordinating this with), we had no choice but to run as fast as we could back to the bus that was about to leave.

As we lingered at the waterfalls, we went beyond the Shomyo Bridge, where there were a couple of flights of steps leading to a shelter and a couple more overlooks.

From this vantage point, we were able to see more of the Shomyo Waterfall, but the Hannoki Waterfall started to hide itself within its grooved watercourse on the facing mountain.

By the way, that shelter was what allowed us to linger for as long as we did to wait out the remainder of the downpour we were experiencing.

Shomyo_028_05292009 - A different companion waterfall that was even thinner than the Hannoki Waterfall (on the left in this photo)
A different companion waterfall that was even thinner than the Hannoki Waterfall (on the left in this photo)

Anyways, from looking at how thin the Hannoki-no-taki was, Julie and I could tell that it really depended on snowmelt as well as the brief but dense rainy season of early to mid Summer.

As you get into Autumn (which I thought would be an excellent time to go waterfalling in Japan as well as just about all of Asia for that matter), I believe this waterfall tended to diminish rapidly.

Perhaps that is why it didn’t quite get the same love as Shomyo-daki.

Man Modifications Impacting Shomyo-daki’s Overall Score

I would put this twin tower pairing of waterfalls (not the only waterfall pairing in the country, by the way; see Ginga and Ryusei Falls) right up there amongst Asia’s very best.

Shomyo_003_jx_05292009 - A look at the man-modifications made just downstream of the Shomyo Waterfall and Hannoki Waterfall
A look at the man-modifications made just downstream of the Shomyo Waterfall and Hannoki Waterfall

However, the amount of man-modifications done immediately downstream of the falls kind of spoiled things a bit.

That said, logging and hydroelectricity along with tourism and fishing drive the economy of the Toyama-ken (“ken” means prefecture).

So, I guess having this waterfall was much better than have it sacrificed altogether!

The Kurobe-Tateyama Transalpine Route

Another thing worth mentioning was the well-publicized Kurobe-Tateyama Transalpine Route through the heart of the Japan Alps spanning both the Nagano and Toyama Prefectures.

While I did have concerns about luggage forwarding, it seemed like a viable way to experience the Japan Alps without a rental car.

Tateyama_006_05292009 - The train we took from Tateyama to the start of the Shomyo Waterfall walk was one of the legs of the Kurobe-Tateyama Transalpine Route
The train we took from Tateyama to the start of the Shomyo Waterfall walk was one of the legs of the Kurobe-Tateyama Transalpine Route

Even though we didn’t do it given our logistical concerns, it might be something we’d consider doing on a future trip to this region.

This alpine crossing involved a combination of funiculars, walks, and bus rides while taking in mountains, lakes, a big hydro scheme, and plenty of vistas.

As you can see from the crummy weather that we faced, that further conspired to keep us from forcing this tour to happen (rain or shine).

Nevertheless, had we done it, there was a separate walkway that linked one of the stops higher up the mountain to the Shomyo and Hannoki Waterfalls.

And from there, we could have taken the bus back to Tateyama Station to complete the alpine traverse.

Authorities

The Shomyo Waterfall and Hannoki Waterfall reside near the town of Tateyama in the Toyama Prefecture, Japan. It is administered by the Ministry of the Environment. For information or inquiries about the area as well as current conditions, you can try visiting the official website for the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route.

Maps and Routing Content are for annual subscribers. See Membership Options.
Content is for subscribers. See Membership Options.
Tagged with: toyama, tateyama, japan alps, japan, waterfall, tallest, transalpine, kurobe



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