Penedo Furado

Vila de Rei, Central Region, Portugal

About Penedo Furado


Hiking Distance: about 1.6km round trip
Suggested Time: allow at least an hour

Date first visited: 2024-06-17
Date last visited: 2024-06-17

Waterfall Latitude: 39.62838
Waterfall Longitude: -8.16536

Waterfall Safety and Common Sense

Penedo Furado (or Cascata do Penedo Furado) consists of a pair of waterfalls near the headwaters of the Albufeira do Castelo do Bode reservoir in the geographical center of Portugal.

The two notable waterfalls here were modest in size (each probably about 10m in cumulative height), and there might be even more hidden further upstream and downstream of the main touristed area.

Penedo_Furado_112_06172024 - One of the waterfalls of the Cascata do Penedo Furado
One of the waterfalls of the Cascata do Penedo Furado

In addition to its waterfalls, this place attracts families from around the country with its river beach (praia fluvial).

This was where the Ribeira de Codes creek has been man-modified to ensure the water at the river beach is both calm and shallow.

It’s even watched over by a life guard during the Summer season (as it was during our mid-June 2024 visit) to ensure this place remains a fun place for the whole family.

The family-friendliness of this place is further played up as there was a gentle boardwalk and trail (i.e. the Passadiços do Penedo Furado) connecting the praia fluvial to the cascatas.

Penedo_Furado_162_06172024 - The Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado, which was not very busy on the morning we showed up in mid-June 2024
The Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado, which was not very busy on the morning we showed up in mid-June 2024

As if that wasn’t enough, there were also panoramic views to be had of both the gorge and the reservoir as well as a chance to check out some ancient fossils at the bicha pintada (or “painted tail”).

Indeed, the slab of rock here is said to be 480 million years old.

Even though this place can be quite popular, it appears to be well off the beaten path of most tourist itineraries (at least nowhere near as crazy as Porto, Sintra, the Algarve, nor Lisboa).

There are also statues donated by nearby villagers perched atop some outcrops overlooking the gorge.

Penedo_Furado_007_iPhone_06172024 - Context of one of the statues perched atop an outcrop overlooking the gorge and giving me those Jesus the Redeemer statue vibes
Context of one of the statues perched atop an outcrop overlooking the gorge and giving me those Jesus the Redeemer statue vibes

They were situated in such a way as to remind me of the famous Jesus the Redeemer statues in both Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and across the April 25th Bridge in Lisbon.

Experiencing Penedo Furado – lookouts and the Praia Fluvial

While there are many ways to experience the Penedo Furado attractions, we’ll just focus on how we managed to experience this place.

We started off by stopping at one of two overlooks during the drive down to the car park for Penedo Furado (see directions below).

Even though we could have walked down to the main trails along the creeks down below from the lookouts, we just briefly stopped and then continued driving so we wouldn’t have to worry about the elevation gain/loss.

Penedo_Furado_009_06172024 - Looking down from the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão, where we can see the Ribeira do Pisão joining up with the headwaters of the Albufeira do Castelo do Bode
Looking down from the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão, where we can see the Ribeira do Pisão joining up with the headwaters of the Albufeira do Castelo do Bode

The lookout we stopped for was the Miradouro Fragas do Rabadão, which had a swing as well as views of both the Ribeira do Milreu and the Ribeira de Codes (both of which feed into the Albufeira do Castelo do Bode reservoir).

The Miradouro do Penedo Furado was a little further south from the one we stopped for.

This lookout offered a more southerly view of the Ribeira de Codes while near the bottom of its descent into the gorge was the Bicha Pintada (site of a 480 million-year-old fossil).

Once we got to the car park for Penedo Furado, there were picnic areas, campgrounds, the aforementioned river beach, toilets, and even a snack bar.

Experiencing Penedo Furado – Walking the Grande Rota do Zêzere

Penedo_Furado_005_iPhone_06172024 - Looking back at the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado as we started to walk on the Rota Grande do Zêzere along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado en route to its waterfalls
Looking back at the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado as we started to walk on the Rota Grande do Zêzere along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado en route to its waterfalls

From this developed area, we then followed the boardwalk (passadiços) leading downstream along the Ribeira de Codes on the Grande Rota do Zêzere.

But before even getting started in earnest on this walk, just downstream of the dam holding up the creek for the swimming area, there was the end of the steps that came down from the Miradouro do Penedo Furado.

And just a short flight of steps up this trail was a spur path leading to a roped off area with an interpretive sign for the Bicha Pintada (or painted tail), which housed an ancient fossil on its veined slab of rock.

Continuing on the Grande Rota do Zêzere along the creek, it would continue for about 700m as it went past a footbridge (where the path to the left was for the Grande Rota da Prata e do Ouro) and ultimately got to another footbridge.

Penedo_Furado_008_iPhone_06172024 - Looking upstream towards the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall, which was one of the Penedo Furado Waterfalls on the Ribeira do Milreu
Looking upstream towards the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall, which was one of the Penedo Furado Waterfalls on the Ribeira do Milreu

This second footbridge crossed the Ribeira do Milreu just downstream of the first waterfall of the Penedo Furado.

This one fell in two separate tiers underneath some bridge and steeply ascending trail leading back up to the Miradouro das Fragas de Rabadão.

According to a sign here, this first waterfall, which I’m estimating to be where the Ribeira do Milreu dropped a modest 5m or so, was called the Fonte Cristalina.

Continuing up the steps above the Fonte Cristalina, the trail then continued up past some rock shelters or sheds with a detour that led up to the backside of one of the statues overlooking the gorge.

Penedo_Furado_021_iPhone_06172024 - Looking back at the context of one of the rock shelters perched above the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall
Looking back at the context of one of the rock shelters perched above the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall

I had to be real careful on the steep scramble to get up to the statue because the footing was unsure, and I did wonder if I was even supposed to scramble up to the statue in the first place.

In any case, continuing along the elevated boardwalk, I only had to go about another 100m or so before reaching a spur trail descending to a lookout for the secluded Bica Negra Waterfall.

This waterfall seemed to have a bit more height than the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall, and I’m guessing that it’s where the Ribeira do Pisão dropped roughly 10m.

Indeed, this waterfall was more satisfying to look at compared to Fonte Cristalina, but it was essentially my turnaround point for the brief hike from the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado.

Penedo_Furado_117_06172024 - Portrait view of the Bica Negra Waterfall, which was my turnaround point for the Penedo Furado excursion
Portrait view of the Bica Negra Waterfall, which was my turnaround point for the Penedo Furado excursion

While there was another statue perched even higher above the continuation of the trail (where one path went up to the Miradouro das Fragas de Rabadão), I decided not to continue climbing to pursue them.

Thus, when all was said and done, I wound up walking about 1.6km round-trip, and we wound up spending a little under 90 minutes away from the car.

Authorities

The Penedo Furado Waterfall is located near the town and municipality of Vila de Rei of the Castelo Branco District (also straddling the Santarém District) in the Centro Region of Portugal. It is managed by the Municipality of Vila de Rei. For information or inquiries about the area as well as current conditions, you can try visiting the Center of Portugal website.

Drive_to_Penedo_Furado_055_MingSung_06182024 - Our Penedo Furado excursion started with stopping at one of the lookouts, which was where this signed turnoff was going to.  This was for the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão
Penedo_Furado_003_iPhone_06172024 - Closer look at the sign pointing the way to the Miradouro Fragas do Rabadão
Penedo_Furado_003_06172024 - Approaching the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão from the Baloiço do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_007_06172024 - This was the view from the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão
Penedo_Furado_008_06172024 - Looking back at the Baloiço do Penedo Furado from the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão
Penedo_Furado_011_06172024 - Context of the building at the Baloiço do Penedo Furado and our parked rental car
Penedo_Furado_012_06172024 - Looking south towards the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado from the Baloiço do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_013_06172024 - If we were so inclined, we could have walked down from the Baloiço do Penedo Furado right down to the waterfalls
Penedo_Furado_022_06172024 - Checking out the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_023_06172024 - Looking ahead at the calm waters of the Ribeira de Codes at the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_029_06172024 - Looking back towards the snack bar and the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_031_06172024 - Checking out some picnic tables near the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_034_06172024 - Starting on the Passadiços do Penedo Furado as we left the river beach. Notice up ahead on the steps behind the vegetation was a roped off area protecting the Bicha Pintada and its 480 million year-old fossil
Penedo_Furado_036_06172024 - Looking back at the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado from the boardwalk
Penedo_Furado_038_06172024 - Julie on the trail to the waterfalls, which coincided with the Grande Rota do Zêzere
Penedo_Furado_040_06172024 - Looking back at the base of the trail descending from the Miradouro do Penedo Furado and the Bicha Pintada from further along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_043_06172024 - Closeup look at what appeared to be a purple star-shaped flower in bloom along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_046_06172024 - One of the steps descending beneath the Passadiços do Penedo Furado towards the Ribeira de Codes
Penedo_Furado_048_06172024 - Continuing along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado on the way to the waterfalls
Penedo_Furado_051_06172024 - Briefly entering a shaded part of the Passadiços do Penedo Furado providing some relief from the pretty hot day we were having during our visit in mid-June 2024
Penedo_Furado_053_06172024 - Continuing further along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado as we started to round a corner and follow the Ribeira do Milreu instead of the Ribeira de Codes
Penedo_Furado_054_06172024 - Looking back downstream at the gorge near the headwaters of the Albufeira do Castelo do Bode
Penedo_Furado_059_06172024 - Continuing to follow the Passadiços do Penedo Furado towards the waterfall while following along the Ribeira do Milreu
Penedo_Furado_062_06172024 - Proceeding towards a footbridge over the Ribeira do Milreu, which led to the Rota da Prata e do Ouro, while the other path continued to the waterfalls
Penedo_Furado_070_06172024 - Looking up at one of the statues overlooking the gorge, which really gave me those Jesus the Redeemer vibes (e.g. in Rio de Janeiro as well as the April 25th Bridge in Lisbon)
Penedo_Furado_074_06172024 - Looking ahead towards the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall, which was one of the Penedo Furado Waterfalls
Penedo_Furado_009_iPhone_06172024 - Direct look at the upper tier of the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall
Penedo_Furado_086_06172024 - Profile view down across the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall
Penedo_Furado_089_06172024 - Some mossy green walls and a rock shelter seen as I climbed up the rock steps near the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall
Penedo_Furado_093_06172024 - Checking out the backside of this statue overlooking the gorge situated in between Fonte Cristalina and Bica Negra
Penedo_Furado_094_06172024 - Looking back towards the continuation of the trail leading back up to the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão as it ascended above Fonte Cristalina as seen from the elevated perspective by the statue
Penedo_Furado_097_06172024 - Another contextual look at the trail leading up towards the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão
Penedo_Furado_100_06172024 - This was as close to the statue as I was able to get just so I could see what the statue was supposed to be seeing
Penedo_Furado_013_iPhone_06172024 - Continuing along the trail as I explored a bit to see if there were any other waterfalls around here
Penedo_Furado_014_iPhone_06172024 - Going up some steps alongside this rocky section, where there was a fork in the trail coming up
Penedo_Furado_015_iPhone_06172024 - Looking back at the trail context with one of the statues overlooking the gorge in the distance to the top right
Penedo_Furado_107_06172024 - Looking back at the ascending trail fork near the Bica Negra Waterfall
Penedo_Furado_108_06172024 - Portrait context of the viewpoint for the Bica Negra Waterfall as I was descending to its end
Penedo_Furado_017_iPhone_06172024 - Looking right at the Bica Negra Waterfall in between some of the trees in the way
Penedo_Furado_125_06172024 - Looking up at the continuation of the trail leading back up to the Miradouro das Fragas do Rabadão after having had my fill of the Bica Negra Waterfall
Penedo_Furado_128_06172024 - Making my way back towards the Fonte Cristalina Waterfall with the statue up ahead
Penedo_Furado_024_iPhone_06172024 - Checking out the profile of the Fonte Cristalina as we were making our way back to the Praia Fluvial after having our fill of the waterfalls
Penedo_Furado_137_06172024 - Heading back along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado as we were leaving the waterfall and returning to the river beach
Penedo_Furado_143_06172024 - Continuing to follow the Passadiços do Penedo Furado back to the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_147_06172024 - Continuing to return to the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado as I went under this overhanging cliff and boulder along the Passadiços do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_148_06172024 - Continuing to hike back within the gorge on the Passadiços do Penedo Furado boardwalk
Penedo_Furado_150_06172024 - Returning to the trail coming down from the Miradouro do Penedo Furado and the Bicha Pintada fossilized slab
Penedo_Furado_156_06172024 - Making it back to the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado with its rest benches, BBQ facilities, and other amenities
Penedo_Furado_158_06172024 - Now that we returned to the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado, we noticed that there was a life guard on duty
Penedo_Furado_163_06172024 - Closer look at the water by the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado, where there were fish in it
Penedo_Furado_166_06172024 - Tahia checking out the water by the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado
Penedo_Furado_170_06172024 - The toilet and changing room facility by the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado


The Penedo Furado Waterfall and River Beach is located near the town of Vila de Rei.

However, since we drove to and from here from Coimbra and Nazaré, respectively, I’ll describe the directions from both cities as starting points.

Driving to Penedo Furado from Coimbra

Drive_to_Penedo_Furado_010_MingSung_06182024 - Leaving Coimbra as we drove south on the A13 motorway in the direction of Tomar and the Penedo Furado
Leaving Coimbra as we drove south on the A13 motorway in the direction of Tomar and the Penedo Furado

So from center of Coimbra (at the one-way streets near the Hotel Oslo Coimbra), we would follow the one-way streets to the Avenida Emidio Navarro along the Mondego River towards the Ponte de Santa Clara.

Taking the first exit of the roundabout to go across the bridge, we’d then take the second exit at the next roundabout to go onto Avenida Inês de Castro.

From there, we’d then continue along the N17 road for about 9km before reaching an access to the A13 motorway.

Taking the A13 motorway south for about 62km, we eventually took the exit 21 towards N348, where after getting through the toll station, we pretty much took the N348 for the next 22km eventually reaching the N2 in Vila de Rei.

Drive_to_Penedo_Furado_048_MingSung_06182024 - Following signs leading us to Penedo Furado from the village of Milreu after leaving the N2
Following signs leading us to Penedo Furado from the village of Milreu after leaving the N2

Turning right onto the N2, we then followed this road south for a little over 7km before following the signs to turn right and go towards the village of Milreu.

Then, we continued to follow the signs through the village streets of Rua Irene Barata, Rua do Canto, Rua do Cemiterio, and Rua do Fontanario (roughly 1.4km) before turning left onto a wider access road (still following the signs for Penedo Furado).

After going about 1km, there was a turnoff for the Baloiço do Penedo Furado and its lookout.

Continuing another 150m from the turnoff for Baloiço do Penedo Furado, there was another pullout for the Miradouro do Penedo Furado.

Drive_to_Penedo_Furado_054_MingSung_06182024 - Approaching the Baloiço do Penedo Furado, which was the first of two miradouros overlooking the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado
Approaching the Baloiço do Penedo Furado, which was the first of two miradouros overlooking the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado

Finally, continuing another 500m, we reached the well-signed turnoff for Penedo Furado on the right.

This turnoff led the final 400m or so down the ramp to the car park for the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado.

Overall, this drive took us about 90 minutes.

Driving to Penedo Furado from Nazaré

Even though we didn’t actually drive this way, the most straightforward route to get to the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado would be to rely more on the motorways instead of the more rural N and IC roads.

Drive_to_Lisbon_Airport_005_MingSung_06192024 - Even though it doesn't look like it here, the one-way streets in Nazaré Beach could get quite congested when trying to leave the town for the motorways further to the east
Even though it doesn’t look like it here, the one-way streets in Nazaré Beach could get quite congested when trying to leave the town for the motorways further to the east

So from Nazaré Beach, we would drive the N8-5 east for about 8.5km to the A8 motorway, where we took the entrance for the northbound direction.

Then, we would pretty much followed the A8 for about 32km before taking the ramp for the A1 motorway.

On the A1, we’d then drove south for about 38km before taking the A23 motorway going east at exit 7.

Next, we’d follow the A23 motorway for the next 42km before taking exit 10 for the N2 towards Abrantes Norte/Vila de Rei/Sardoal.

Penedo_Furado_172_06172024 - Looking back at the car park for the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado from the riverside beach
Looking back at the car park for the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado from the riverside beach

After nearly 18km along the N2 Road, we’d eventually turn left into the village of Milreu, and then follow the directions to the lookouts as well as the Praia Fluvial do Penedo Furado as stated in the previous driving route from Coimbra.

Overall, this drive would also take us about 90-120 minutes depending on traffic (since Nazaré can definitely see a lot of congestion as it gets increasingly popular).

For context, Vila de Rei is about 84km (over 60 minutes drive) south of Coimbra, about 145km (over 90 minutes drive) southeast of Aveiro, about 113km (under 90 minutes drive) east of Nazaré, about 117km (over 90 minutes drive) northwest of Marvão, about 205km (over 2 hours drive) southeast of Porto, and 170km (about 2 ours drive) north of Lisbon.

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Video starting off with a contextual view of the first of the waterfalls (called Fonte Cristalina) before panning at the upper tier


Video starting from the top of the steps leading down to the view of the Bica Negra (2nd of the waterfalls) before getting a lower look at it


Video pretty much showing the Bica Negra waterfall and its surroundings from near the bottom of its stepped viewing area

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Tagged with: vila de rei, castelo branco, batalha, nazare, central region, portugal



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Johnny Cheng

About Johnny Cheng

Johnny Cheng is the founder of the World of Waterfalls and author of the award-winning A Guide to New Zealand Waterfalls. Over the last 2 decades, he has visited thousands of waterfalls in over 40 countries around the world and nearly 40 states in the USA.
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